IRAQ
I had wanted to visit Iraq for a long time, but I kept postponing the trip. Finally, in 2022, I made the decision to go. After months of planning, I spent just under 10 days in Baghdad and took day trips from there. I felt a bit uneasy about staying longer due to what we often read in the news. However, looking back, I wish I had explored more because the things portrayed in the news are greatly exaggerated. During my stay, I felt completely safe and even met some truly amazing and kind people. Iraq has SO MUCH to see.
When planning a trip to Iraq, it's important to consider that it isn't a highly touristy destination. However, this can be a super bonus aspect for travellers like me. The country lacks well-established infrastructure, particularly in terms of transportation. While it's still possible to navigate around, it requires some pre-planning.
Some, hopefully useful, info points on arrivals:
I got a VISA on arrival as I am an EU passport holder. The process and lines as you might expect are not very organised. Before going through passport control there is a super small desk with a paper sign and a policeman. He handed out forms to be filled out ( always bring a pen!). Once everyone had filled the forms he took all the forms and passport to an office. He came back with all the visas ( we were around 15 people waiting) after 30 minutes. He then collected the 70 USD.
As usual, do not change money at the airport but wait to be in the city.
I got a SIM card for my mobile at the airport. I am sure it would be cheaper in the city but I wanted to be connected as I had all my travelling info online. There is a desk at the airport at arrivals ( after you collect bags and after you do immigration) that sells SIM cards. Be prepared to have pictures and fingerprints taken. They will also take a scan of your passport. I got a 10GB SIM card for 8 USD and paid in Dollars.
Get the app Careem. This is like the equivalent of Uber. You can book your ride and you will pay in cash the driver. I personally used very little the app as I prefer walking and considering the traffic in Baghdad it is actually most of the time faster.
I got a taxi from the airport which cost me 15000 IQD, around 12 USD. There was apparently a cheaper option but required changing cars and possibly a shared bus. Since I arrived after a long journey I didn't want too many hassles to get to my hotel.
Of course, most governments do not allow or recommend citizens to travel to Iraq so most travel insurance will not cover you, so make sure you buy a specific travel insurance for Iraq before departing.
The journey from Baghdad airport to my hotel in the centre took around 45 minutes as traffic in the city was crazy. The first thing I noticed on the journey was the amount of visible guns in the streets. On the highway, you could see every 100 meters these concrete towers with guns and some tanks and armoured vehicles near the main bridges. As I said earlier, I never felt unsafe during my stay and I got easily used to seeing military checkpoints and armoured vehicles.
Baghdad is a remarkable city with a rich cultural heritage. However, it also experiences stark contrasts as a result of its recent wars. In the same streets, you can witness both abandoned buildings and incredibly modern architectures.
When visiting museums or tourist sights be very sure of their opening times as it can be very sketchy. Don’t expect things to be open after 1 PM so try to visit places in the morning and in some of them expect an entry fee of around 20 USD.
These are my recommendations for the must-visit places in this amazing city:
Al-Rasheed Street
This is in downtown Baghdad and possibly the oldest road in the city. this area contains many bazaars and shops. It is a street with remarkable old buildings and beautiful architecture.
Copper Bazaar
Mustansiriya Madrasah
A medieval-era university building. I tried my luck 3 times before finding the place actually open. Nobody seemed to know the opening hours and I am sure I was charged by a random guard just to open the door. But I wanted to see it so I am happy I didn’t give up and came back many times until I managed to get in. This is an example on how Iraq is not used to tourists, so don’t expect things to always go smoothly, just keep trying!
Abbasid Palace
Khan Al Mudallal Antique Market
Baghdad Liberation Square
Martyr Monument
The Martyr Monument was one of the must-see places for my trip to Baghdad. To go there I booked a Careem car, assuming that this is a well-known monument...especially for its size! Well, my driver didn't know how to get there, but after checking Google Maps and him asking locals....we managed to get there ( again remember Iraq is not a place used for tourists...yet!).
As mentioned earlier opening times are VERY SKETCHY! So I arrived at the time that I could find on Google map and of course, it was totally wrong, so I had 1.5 hours to wait in the middle of nowhere. The monument is on the outskirts of the city.
All these mishaps eventually ended up in one of the most memorable experiences of the trip. The main sights in Baghdad have police and army presence so the policemen that were outside the entrance invited me to have breakfast with them, Literally, we had breakfast on the police car! This old Iraqi policeman kept feeding me and offering me tea until the monument opened. Iraqis are one of the kindest people I have met during my trips.
So when things don't go as planned...just go with the flow. “If it is perfect it is not memorable!” and this became the best memory of this trip!
Iraqi National Museum
There are numerous pieces of street art around the city!
DAY TRIP TO SAMARRA
Samarra was a place I really wanted to visit, so I didn't want to miss the chance. Usually, you can get there by sharing a minivan with others. However, there were many army checkpoints along the way, so I decided to hire a driver from the hotel. That way, if anything went wrong, they could communicate with the officers. It wasn't easy to find a willing driver, as many didn't want to drive on those roads. After a few days of negotiating, I finally found someone. It wasn't the cheapest option, costing me 100 USD, but it was worth it. The trip to Samarra took over 2 hours, and the road was really bad. We had to go through 4 checkpoints where the army checked our passports. At the last checkpoint, just before entering the city, they kept our passports. This was the scariest part since we had to leave our passports with complete strangers.
Malwiya Minaret
Perhaps this was another favourite spot I went to in Iraq. The spiral tower is incredibly breathtaking, and you can actually climb to the summit. It can be a bit nerve-wracking without any safety barriers, but the experience is definitely worthwhile!
Al-Askari Shrine
Just a short walk away from the spiral minaret is another amazing building. The Al-Askari Mosque is a very important place for Shia Muslims. It was damaged by two different terrorist attacks, so there are ongoing efforts to repair it. The mosque is now open to visitors and the inside is incredibly detailed and jaw dropping. It feels like being inside a huge kaleidoscope with all the glass and mirrors. There are quite a few security checks required to enter the shrine.
DAY TRIP TO BABYLON
Going to Babylon was a bit easier than going to Samarra. I hired a driver from the hotel again, and this time it was easier to find one. Maybe the roads to Babylon are in better condition! There were fewer inspections this time, and I “only” had to stop at three army checkpoints. While visiting Babylon, you can also explore Saddam Hussein's abandoned summer palace.
Ishtar Gate
The Ishtar gate is likely the most famous attraction in Babylon. It is a modern version that was rebuilt because the original was stolen by the Germans (and they should return it!). Also, there is a small museum within the walls.
Saddam Hussein Abandoned Summer Palace
I really enjoy exploring abandoned places, so this was another must-visit location for me. You can easily walk there from the Ishtar gate, after visiting the Babylon complex. While the interior of the place is quite empty, it provides a glimpse into the extravagant lifestyle that Saddam Hussein led back in the day. It even has two elevators exclusively for accessing the upper floor, although they are no longer in operation. Unfortunately, access to the top floor is currently blocked off. I did attempt to go upstairs, but all the stairs were barricaded with barbed wire, and a guard was stationed there to monitor the area. If I were in a different country, I might have taken my chances and tried to go upstairs, but I didn't want to put myself at risk in Iraq.
On the front of the building, there are decorative signs, and you can still see images of Saddam Hussein on them. I was very surprised that these images haven't been taken down or vandalised yet.
GOING BACK TO THE AIRPORT
I am writing about it because the process was more complicated than I expected.
I reserved a car through Careem, thinking it would transport me to the departures terminal.
It seems like cars cannot go to the terminal building:
The car will leave you at a “VIP van” garage, just a couple of KMs from the terminal.
You join one of these vans for 10000 IQD (around 7 USD)
When the van is full it will leave for the airport
The first stop of the van is for official to check that everyone has a ticket / reservation and a passport ( keep them handy)
Van stopped a second time. this time it was inspected underneath (maybe looking for explosive?!)
The drive to the airport was 10 minutes
When leaving the van, officials asked to put all the luggage on the pavement so the dogs can sniff them
Before entering the terminal building there is again security check of people and bags
Inside the terminal there is another check to reach the check in desks
Then you have all the usual immigration and security checks.
To put it simply, make sure you arrive at the airport ahead of time! Also, it's better to have a printed ticket. I had a digital boarding pass, but it wasn't accepted when boarding the plane. They hurried me back to the check-in desk to get a paper boarding pass (don't ask me why!).
Hope you got some useful info and what to know before travelling to Iraq. Have a fun trip!
